Maui is the second largest island of the Hawaiian Islands with an area of 1883.5 square kilometers and is the 17th largest island in the United States. Maui is part of the state of Hawaii and is the largest island of Maui County's four islands, bigger Lana'i, Kaho'olawe, and Moloka'i. In 2000, Maui had a population of 117,644, third most populous of the Hawaiian Islands, after O'ahu and Hawai'i Island. Kahului is the largest town on the island with a population of 20,146. Wailuku is the seat of Maui County. Other important towns include Kihei, Lahaina, Makawao, Pa'ia, Kula, Ha'iku, Hana, Ka'anapali, Wailea, Makena, vaKapalua.
For many, Maui inhabits the sweet spot. It’s a tangle of lovely contradictions, with a Gucci heel on one foot and a puka-shell anklet on the other. Culturally, it’s a mix of farmers, paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys), aspiring chefs, artists, New Age healers, and big wave riders. The landscape runs the gamut from sun-kissed golden beaches and fragrant rainforests to the frigid, wind-swept summit of Haleakala. Sure, more traffic lights sprout up around the island every year and spurts of development have turned cherished landmarks into mere memories. But even as Maui transforms, its allure remains.
Maui, the Valley Isle, is so named for the large isthmus between the island’s two towering volcanoes: Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains. The flat landscape in between, Central Maui, is the heart of the island’s business community and local government.
Kahului--Most Maui visitors fly over waving sugarcane fields to land at Kahului Airport, just yards away from rolling surf. Sadly, your first sight out of the airport will likely be a Costco—hardly an icon of Hawaiiana but always bustling with islanders and visitors alike. Beyond that, Kahului is a grid of shops and no-nonsense neighborhoods that you’ll pass through en route to your destination.
Wailuku--Nestled up against the West Maui Mountains, Wailuku is a time capsule of faded wooden storefronts, old churches, and plantation homes. While most people zip through on their way to see the natural beauty of Iao Valley, this quaint little town is worth a brief visit, if only to see a real place where real people actually appear to be working at something other than a suntan. This is the county seat, so you’ll see folks in suits (or at least aloha shirts and long pants) on important missions in the tropical heat. The town has some great budget restaurants, interesting bungalow architecture, a wonderful historic B&B, and the intriguing Bailey House Museum.
West Maui
Jagged peaks, velvety green valleys, a wilderness full of native species: The majestic West Maui Mountains are the epitome of earthly paradise. The beaches below are crowded with condos and resorts, but still achingly beautiful. This stretch of coastline along Maui’s “forehead,” from Kapalua to the historic port of Lahaina, is the island’s busiest resort area (with South Maui close behind). Expect slow-moving traffic on the two main thoroughfares: Honoapiilani Highway and Front Street.
Vacationers on this coast can choose from several beachside neighborhoods, each with its own identity and microclimate. The West Side tends to be hot, humid, and sunny year-round. As you travel north, the weather grows cooler and mistier. Starting at the southern end of West Maui and moving northward, the coastal communities look like this:
Lahaina--In days past, Lahaina was the seat of Hawaiian royalty. Legend has it that a powerful mo‘o (lizard goddess) dwelt in a moat surrounding a palace here. Later, this hot and sunny seaport was where raucous whalers swaggered ashore in search of women and grog. Modern Lahaina is a tame version of its former self. Today Front Street teems with restaurants, T-shirt shops, and galleries. Action revolves around the town’s giant, century-old banyan tree and busy recreational harbor. Parts of Lahaina are downright tacky, but you can still find plenty of authentic history here. It’s also a great place to stay; accommodations include a few old hotels (such as the 1901 Pioneer Inn on the harbor), quaint bed-and-breakfasts, and a handful of oceanfront condos.
Kaanapali--Farther north along the West Maui coast is Hawaii’s first master-planned destination resort. Along nearly 3 miles of sun-kissed golden beach, pricey midrise hotels are linked by a landscaped parkway and a beachfront walking path. Golf greens wrap around the slope between beachfront and hillside properties.Convenience is a factor here: Whalers Village shopping mall and numerous restaurants are easy to reach on foot or by resort shuttle. Shuttles serves the small West Maui airport just to the north and also go to Lahainaah, for shopping, dining, entertainment, and boat tours. Kaanapali is popular with groups and families—and especially teenagers, who like all the action.
Honokowai, Kahana--In the building binge of the 1970s, condominiums sprouted along this gorgeous coastline like mushrooms after a rain. Today, these older oceanside units offer excellent bargains for astute travelers. The great location—along sandy beaches, within minutes of both the Kapalua and Kaanapali resort areas, and close enough to the goings-on in Lahaina town—makes this area a haven for the budget-minded.
In Honokowai and Mahinahina, you’ll find mostly older, cheaper units. There’s not much shopping here (mostly convenience stores), but you’ll have easy access to the shops and restaurants of Kaanapali. Kahana is a little more upscale than Honokowai and Mahinahina, and most of its condos are big high-rise types, newer than those immediately to the south.
Napili--A quiet, tucked-away gem, with temperatures at least 5 degrees cooler than in Lahaina, this tiny neighborhood feels like a world unto itself. Wrapped around deliciously calm Napili Bay, Napili offers convenient activity desks and decent eateries and is close to the gourmet restaurants of Kapalua. Lodging is generally more expensive here—although I’ve found a few hidden jewels at affordable prices.
Kapalua--Beyond the activity of Kaanapali and Kahana, the road starts to climb and the vista opens up to include unfettered views of Molokai across the channel. A country lane lined with Cook pines brings you to Kapalua. It’s the exclusive domain of the luxurious Ritz-Carlton resort and expensive condos and villas, set above two sandy beaches. Just north are two jeweled bays: marine-life preserves and world-class surf spot in winter. Although rain is frequent here, it doesn’t dampen the enjoyment of this wilder stretch of coast.
Anyone is welcome to visit Kapalua, guest of the resort or not. The Ritz-Carlton provides free public parking and beach access. The resort has swank restaurants, spas, golf courses, and hiking trails—all open to the general public.
South Maui
The hot, sunny South Maui coastline is popular with families and sun worshippers. Rain rarely falls here, and temperatures hover around 85[dg]F (29[dg]C) year-round. Cows once grazed and cacti grew wild on this former scrubland from Maalaea to Makena, now home to four distinct areas—Maalaea, Kihei, Wailea, and Makena. Maalaea is off on its own, at the mouth of an active small boat harbor, Kihei is the working-class, feeder community for well-heeled Wailea, and Makena is a luxurious wilderness at the road’s end.
Maalaea--If West Maui is the island’s head, Maalaea is just under the chin. This windy, oceanfront village centers on a small-boat harbor (with a general store and a handful of restaurants) and the Maui Ocean Center, an aquarium/ocean complex. Visitors should be aware that tradewinds are near constant here, so a stroll on the beach often comes with a free sandblasting.
Kihei--Kihei is less a proper town than a nearly continuous series of condos and mini-malls lining South Kihei Road. This is Maui’s best vacation bargain. Budget travelers swarm like sun-seeking geckos over the eight sandy beaches along this scalloped, 7-mile stretch of coast. Kihei is neither charming nor quaint; what it lacks in aesthetics, though, it more than makes up for in sunshine, affordability, and convenience. If you want the beach in the morning, shopping in the afternoon, and Hawaii Regional Cuisine in the evening—all at bargain prices—head to Kihei.
